Good ventilation prevents water and dust accumulation that could affect your horse’s health. [4] X Research source Comfortable bedding options for the stall include dust-free wood shavings, hemp, and straw. Rubber matting topped with straw or wood shavings is another good option. [5] X Research source You can also create a multi-layered floor, consisting of a subfloor made of natural materials (e. g. , crushed rock) that is paved over with concrete or asphalt, and a top floor made of either rubber or plastic. [6] X Research source This option is time consuming to install and could be expensive. You will need to ‘muck’ out your horse’s stall daily. [7] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Mucking means cleaning out your horse’s manure with a shovel and wheelbarrow. You should also refresh the bedding and make sure it is spread evenly. [8] X Research source
Your horse should be able to stand comfortably in the stall without bumping his head against its ceiling. It is best if you account for him raising his head high and even rearing, just in case. [11] X Research source If you have multiple horses, they should all be able to fit in the stall comfortably at the same time. [12] X Research source The box stall is especially important during the summer to give your horse relief from the shade and biting insects. [13] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Clean the box stall daily. Consider talking with other horse owners or visiting your local home improvement store for assistance and guidance on constructing a box stall.
The paddock or pasture should be enclosed by a sturdy fence,[18] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source such as a wire fence secured with strong wooden posts, a wooden rail fence, pvc fencing, or naturally woven brush and trees. Remember that wooden fences need to be sealed periodically and pvc fencing acquires mold that needs power-washing. [19] X Research source #* Do not use barbed wire fencing. [20] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Your horse could seriously injure himself on barbed wire. Though it is safe for cattle, horses have thinner skin and are more likely to jump and land in it. There can be many hazards in your horse’s paddock or pasture, including poisonous plants (e. g. , yew, foxglove, buttercups, oak leaves and acorns), trash, and holes in the fencing. [21] X Research source Check for these hazards at least once a week, and remove any that you see.
The hay should be free of dust and mold. [25] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source Dusty or moldy hay can damage your horse’s lungs and upset his stomach. Common types of hay include clover, alfalfa, timothy, and fescue. The type of hay you feed your horse can depend on his life stage and use. For example, an older horse who is living out his golden years will probably not need the same type of hay as a young, racing thoroughbred. Consult with your veterinarian throughout your horse’s life to ensure your horse is eating the ideal type and amount of hay. Your horse should have access to hay or grass all day. To keep him from wasting too much hay as he is eating, consider placing the hay in a hay feeder. It can also be spread out over rubber mats or grass. Hay that is spread out and fluffed up will keep horses occupied and prevent them from eating more than they meant to with tightly compacted food. Covering the hay and storing it in your barn can help prevent mold development and infestation of small vermin like rats or mice. Always check hay before feeding to catch any wire, string, or animals that could have become trapped during baling. [26] X Research source The average horse should eat about two to four percent of his body weight in hay or other feeds per day. [27] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source
Be aware that grain is high in carbohydrates and cause serious health problems (colic, muscle disorders, joint problems in foals) if your horse eats too much of it. [30] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source A good rule of thumb is to start your horse on one-half pound of grain per 100 pounds (45 kilograms) body weight. [31] X Research source From there, you can work with your veterinarian to determine how much grain your horse will need, based on his age and activity level. Always feed your horse hay before grain. This will keep him from not only eating too much grain, but eating it too quickly. [32] X Research source Split the grain feeding into three to four small feedings per day. [33] X Research source You may have heard that you should feed your horse more grain in the winter to keep him warm. In actuality, hay produces more heat than hay does when digested. [34] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source
The treats you give your horse should be healthy. Examples of healthy treats include apples, maple syrup, carrots, watermelon, and honey. Feeding fruits and vegetables on a regular basis provides extra nutrition not available in grass and hay. [36] X Research source Be aware that hand-feeding treats to your horse may cause him to start nipping at you. This should not be a problem if you are a well-established leader and are aware of how to use body language to say “no”. [37] X Research source
A young horse will also need a higher ratio of concentrates to forage than older horses. The hindgut of a young horse is still developing and cannot handle the large amounts of fiber and water from grass and hay. [39] X Research source Talk with your veterinarian about how to balance the ratio of concentrates to forage in your young horse. Even though a young horse cannot eat as much grass or hay as an older horse, he should still have 24-hour access to a paddock or pasture. This will allow him to eat at his leisure and get exercise that is necessary for healthy bone development. [40] X Research source An older horse needs more phosphorus and protein in his diet to maintain good health and body condition. These nutrients should be given in an easily digestible form. [41] X Research source Talk with your veterinarian about how best to add more of these nutrients to your older horse’s diet.
Place a large bucket in your horse’s stall and fill it with water. To keep the bucket from tipping over when your horse drinks from it, consider placing it inside of an old tire or hanging it from the wall. [44] X Research source Check the bucket’s water level throughout the day and refill when necessary.
If you want to save some money, you can learn how to trim your horse’s hooves on your own. However, you should first have a farrier or equine veterinarian show you how to do this properly and safely. You should be perfectly capable of filing down small chips and nicks, in either case. [46] X Research source On a daily basis, you should pick out each of your horse’s hooves to remove materials (e. g. , rock, dirt, debris) that could get lodged in the hooves and cause pain and discomfort, especially before a ride. Think how you would feel going on a hike with sand in your socks or pebbles in your shoe![47] X Research source Ask your farrier or veterinarian if you are unsure how to do this. Horses are not born needing shoes, but they may be necessary if they have worn them for years. Truthfully, shoes are only needed if your horse will be walking on pavement or rocks every other day. Otherwise, shoes are needed only if there is some hoof injury that needs treatment. However, if your horse is more than a few years old and has been wearing shoes his whole life, he will have adjusted to them and should continue to be shoed regularly. In either case, your horse still needs their hooves trimmed to be sure they are able to walk properly and their hooves do not get major chips. Most horse shoes are made of aluminum or rubber. [48] X Research source Different shoes are used for different purposes. Your farrier or veterinarian can recommend what type of shoe would work best for your horse. [49] X Research source
Your horse’s teeth should be floated once, but ideally twice, a year. [53] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Teeth floating is hard work and requires that your horse be sedated. Do not attempt to float your horse’s teeth on your own. Poor dental care can lead to such health problems as colic, choke, and weight loss due to your horse’s inability to adequately chew his food. Uneven teeth can also cause ‘quidding’—food falling out of your horse’s mouth. [54] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source The angle of a horse’s teeth can change as he grows older. If you have an older horse, you should regularly check his teeth for unevenness. [55] X Research source
Your equine veterinarian will be able to tell you which other vaccinations your horse will need. [58] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Regular deworming is important to keeping your horse’s worm burden as low as possible. Over time, a heavy worm burden can negatively affect your horse’s digestive system,[59] X Research source , cause weight loss, and worsen your horse’s coat condition. [60] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Work with your veterinarian to set up a regular deworming schedule. In addition to deworming, you can do several things on your property to decrease the environmental worm burden: rotating which pastures your horse grazes in and regularly picking up his feces. [61] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Talk with your equine veterinarian about how to do pasture rotation. If you have multiple horses, make sure that you do not overcrowd any one pasture area with horses. [62] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source
Dandy brushes are stiff bristled and are good for flicking dust off your horse’s coat. [65] X Research source Body brushes, which are soft bristled, are used to brush over your horse’s body. [66] X Research source Curry combs are rubber or metal. Rubber curry combs are for raising dust and dirt from your horse’s coat. The metal comb should not be used on your horse’s body—it is used to clean your other brushes. [67] X Research source Mane and tail combs are usually wide-toothed to glide through your horse’s mane and tail more smoothly. [68] X Research source A plain towel is good for giving your horse a final wipe down to remove any remaining dust or dirt after you’ve finished grooming him. [69] X Research source It is also good to own a sweat scraper to remove water after bathing and a special metal comb to remove hair during the shedding season. During the warmer months, it would be good to spray fly repellent on your horse after grooming. [70] X Research source Organize all of your supplies in a container, such as a bucket, cabinet, or trunk. [71] X Research source
Which brush and comb you use first will depend on how much dirt and dust is on your horse’s coat. If he is particular dirty, you’ll probably need to use a dandy brush and rubber curry comb first to remove the dirt and dust. Pay attention to your horse as you groom him. He may have areas on his body that he is not comfortable with you grooming. If he begins to tense up or step back, he is telling you that he doesn’t like where you are touching him. Leave that spot and move on to another part of his body, but be sure to return later during training to remove his fear. You must be able to check every part of your horse for soreness and injury.
Be gentle when touching and rubbing him with these different objects. It may take some time before he is comfortable with how they feel against his coat. [75] X Expert Source Kate JutagirEquestrian Specialist & Trainer Expert Interview. 31 March 2020. He should be comfortable with whichever objects you use with him, or put on him, on a regular basis.
To lead your horse, you will need snug-fitting halter[77] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source and a lead rope (two to three meters long). [78] X Research source Leading your horse from his side is the customary position from which to lead. [79] X Research source It is also safer than leading him from the lead (in front of the horse) or drive (behind the withers) positions because he can see you on his side. Stand about 12 inches (30 cm) away from your horse and hold the lead rope in your right hand (without wrapping it around your hand). [80] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source [81] X Research source As you walk with him, establish and maintain your chosen distance from him.
Be gentle yet firm when applying direct pressure. Pick a particular part of his body, such as the shoulder, muzzle, or legs. [82] X Research source Apply steady pressure to that area, then release the pressure immediately when your horse moves away from it. [83] X Research source The direct pressure should be just enough to be uncomfortable to your horse. With indirect pressure, you will stand about three feet (one meter) in front of your horse with the lead rope attached to his halter. Point your index finger towards him and begin to wiggle the rope. Wiggle the rope with increasing force until your horse starts to move back, then stop. [84] X Research source It may take your horse a few tries before he understands how he is supposed to respond to pressure. The release of pressure is the reward, but you can also give him verbal praise and treats when he responds correctly.
This movement serves a few purposes: it allows your horse to stretch his muscles and gives you more control over his body. Learning this skill may be easier for your horse than for you. Training your horse to turn on the forehand involves you applying pressure with your legs to guide the movement of your horse’s hind legs while using the reins to control the movement of the front half of his body. It is important that you have just the right coordination between your legs and hands to control your horse’s movements. You will also need to make sure that you are sitting balanced on top of your horse.
