Trim your tree as soon as possible after harvesting fruit. At this stage, the tree will still be in a growth phase and will be able to heal more quickly. Pruning in late summer gives your apricot tree more time to grow new branches, which means that your tree will produce more apricots next year.
If you can’t reach the top of your tree, you’ll also need a sturdy ladder. Folding and leaning ladders not safe to use when pruning, as they’re not stable on uneven ground. Instead, use an orchard ladder, which has a more sturdy tripod structure.
Bleach can be more corrosive on your tools than other disinfectants. [6] X Research source
Look for young branches that have fresh or hardened sap, and remove them. Gumminess can be a sign of disease and rot. [8] X Research source
“Suckers” are small sprouts coming out of the base of the trunk. Look for them below the main branches of the tree, closer to the ground. “Watersprouts” are shoots that grow straight up from the main branches of the apricot tree. These perfectly vertical new branches won’t produce fruit, but often block sunlight from reaching the fruit on lower branches.
It’s best to choose branches that are growing outwards away from the trunk, rather than straight up, as vertically-growing branches are more prone to snapping off if they produce a lot of heavy fruit. Think of a clock, and look to keep branches growing outwards at about a 2:00 or 10:00 angle. All of the scaffold branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk of the tree so that the tree’s structure is well-balanced. Mark these scaffold branches with a piece of brightly-colored ribbon or string, so you won’t accidentally trim them later. Keeping these intact will help prevent over-pruning and ensure your apricot tree’s overall structure is sound. [13] X Research source
Look for the collar at the base of the branch. This is a thicker, ridged area of bark that connects the branch to the trunk. Cut the branch just outside the collar, as this region promotes formation of new tissue and cutting it can cause damage and introduce decay.
Thinner branches towards the top of the tree can be left a little closer together, whereas the thickest branches towards the bottom need the most space.
Cut more branches off of young trees, and less off of older ones. During an apricot tree’s first three years, prune aggressively to aim for growth rather than fruit production.
Trimming vertical branches encourages new branches and leaves to form, and prevents them from growing too tall and blocking sunlight. Pruning horizontal branches promotes new fruit-producing wood.
For example, if you’re shortening a branch that’s close to another branch, trim it near a bud that’s facing the opposite direction of the nearby branch. Shortening a branch will make buds within 1–8 inches (2. 5–20. 3 cm) of the cut grow more vigorously, so make sure you’re trimming at a place along the branch that gives new buds room to grow.
If the tree is very tall and overgrown, don’t cut a lot of height off at once, as the tree may have trouble forming new growth through the thick bark of its lower trunk and branches. Instead, gradually shorten the apricot tree over the next three years, until it reaches your desired height. [21] X Trustworthy Source University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources Extension program of the University of California system devoted to educating and improving local communities Go to source
Keep an eye out for boughs that are producing a lot of apricots and becoming too weighed down, and cut away some of the branches to prevent breakage. If your apricot tree is only producing a substantial apricot crop every other year, thinning out fruit branches on heavy years helps to correct the tree and encourage it to produce a consistent crop every year.
