You can buy seed potatoes at your local gardening store. Purchase them 2-4 weeks in advance of when you’d like to plant them. This is the standard amount of time that it’ll take for the potatoes to sprout. Avoid using the potatoes you buy at the grocery store as seed potatoes. These potatoes are often treated to prevent producing shoots so that they last longer on shelves. Take your seed potatoes out of their bag as soon as possible after you’ve purchased them. Leaving them in the bag can prompt fungal growth.
A potato “eye” is essentially a sprout. You’ll see a tiny green or whitish growth coming out of the potato’s skin. Once your potatoes begin to sprout, don’t rotate them. You want the majority of the sprouts to develop on the upward facing side. The ideal temperature for sprouting seed potatoes is around 50 °F (10 °C).
If you choose to remove the sprouts with a knife, try to keep the cut as shallow as possible. Just cut away the sprout itself and a thin layer of the potato’s skin. The eyes should be between . 25 to . 5 in (0. 64 to 1. 27 cm) when you begin the trimming and planting process.
The ample space gives your potatoes room to grow and develop roots and tubers. If you choose a pot that is too small, your potatoes may not fully sprout. Taller pots or grow bags will give you enough room to repeatedly fill the pot with soil as your potato shoots grow. In general, each seed potato will need between 1. 5 to 2 US gal (5. 7 to 7. 6 L) to grow in a container. Consider this if you decide to plant additional potatoes.
If you go with a heavier plastic pot, make sure to put it on a dolly. The dolly will make it possible for you to move your potatoes around as needed for watering. If you live in a warm area, avoid using black or dark colored pots. These can attract too much sunlight and overheat your crop. Wash out your pots using warm water and soap before you plant in them. This helps to kill off any harmful bacteria. Only select a pot that has drainage holes in the bottom. Otherwise, you can use a drill to create 2-3 holes for drainage.
A sheet or small roll of fiberglass can be purchased at your local gardening center or hardware store. Plastic window screening also works as a substitute material. The screen slows down the drainage process, allowing your potatoes to fully absorb all of the nutrients from the water and soil. Be sure to replace your screens every year to prevent clogging the drainage holes.
The air gaps between the pot and saucer created by the pebbles allow water to drain more efficiently.
All of these ingredients can be purchased at gardening centers or, in the case of compost, created at home. Avoid using soil that was previously used to grow potatoes or any other nightshade crop. Pathogens that could destroy your crop can persist in such soils.
Plant early varieties as early as March or April. They’ll take between 75-90 days to mature for harvest. However, if you plant them too early, they could be damaged by frost. Plant mid-season potatoes from May to July. They’ll take between 85-110 days to mature for harvest. Mid-season potatoes grow best in warmer climates and temperatures. Plant late season potatoes from July to August. They’ll take between 120-135 days to mature for harvest. These potatoes usually tolerate winter temperatures and frost better than early varieties.
Both the fiberglass screen and the pebble/stone layer should be fully covered and no longer visible after you add the soil.
Choose a fertilizer that is explicitly for container planting. An organic or vegetable-specific blend is even better. Once your potatoes are established, you’ll want to feed them liquid fertilizer as often as every 2 weeks. Again, reference the fertilizer’s package for instructions.
When the potatoes are in position, press them gently into the soil and fertilizer mix. It’s likely that your seed potatoes will have eyes all over their skin, so just position the side with the most eyes facing upwards.
Depending on the size of your pot, you may need to add even more growing medium. Use your best judgment and fill it up most of the way, but not all the way to the rim. You will add more soil as the potatoes grow, so account for this as you fill.
Potatoes do best with soil that is moist, but not soggy. Water-logged soil can actually lead to the growth of fungus. You can add a layer of straw to the top of your soil to keep it moist and shaded throughout the day.
You’ll likely need to repeat this process multiple times during the growing cycle. The process is similar to mounding potatoes that were planted in the ground.
If your potatoes do not get enough water, then they will be undersized or more susceptible to diseases and pests. In warmer temperatures, this may mean that you’ll need to water your potato pots twice a day. Tailor your watering schedule to the needs of your particular potatoes.
Your potatoes may be receiving too much sun if the sprouts turn yellow or dry out shortly after shooting out of the dirt.
It’s also a good idea to inspect each potato for fungus or mold. The outer skin should be firm and uniform in color without any white or mushy spots.
