Early seed potatoes mature in 60-110 days. Planted towards the end of March, they are typically ready for lifting from late June or early July. A few varieties of new potatoes include Pentland Javelin, Arran Pilot, and Dunluce. [2] X Research source Maincrop seed potatoes mature in 125–140 days and if planted in late April can be harvested by mid-August, and this can continue through to October. These varieties are higher yielding and usually have larger tubers, which can be used fresh or stored for winter use. King Edward, Kerrs Pink, and Harmony are all good examples of this variety. [3] X Trustworthy Source Royal Horticultural Society Leading gardening charity in the U. K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants Go to source

Try to always use certified seeded stock. This is to control and reduce the risk of potato diseases and viruses. You can get certified potato stock from good garden centre, or online quite cheaply. Potatoes come in different growing times for example.

Don’t soak your potatoes, as some might suggest. Potatoes have no tough shell to need softened by soaking as some seeds do and they have all the moisture they need for sprouting in the flesh of the potato itself. Soaking creates more risk of rotting than anything it might accomplish! You want the cut sides to “heal”- form a dry “skin” over the area to discourage rotting.

Only leave 2 - 3 shoots on each potatoes, removing the rest.

Prepare the ground with well rotted compost add a potato fertiliser high in potash. Be sure to spade or loosen the soil extremely well. Potatoes will not grow in hard or compact soil.

Be sure to plant potatoes in a different part of your garden each year, so that soil can “rest” a season and replenish the nitrogen. Either that or replenish the soil with plenty of liquid fertilizer (05-10-10) during growing season and after your potatoes are harvested. Potatoes can also be panted in potato bags or large pots. Carefully plunge a single chitted (sprouting) tuber into the compost with the shoots pointing upwards, to a depth of 12cm (5") from the soil surface. Gently cover the tubers with compost. All they require is water and a bright, frost free position to grow in.

Another way to plant potatoes is to cut them into chunks so that each chunk has at least 1 or better 2 sprouts shooting up. Carefully dust the potato chunks with agricultural sulfur taking care not to break off the sprouts if at all possible as this slows down growth. Plant the potato chunks with the cut side of your chunk facing down into the soil and the sprout or “eyes” pointing up and about 3-4" below the soil level in your mounds. As the leaves start to push themselves above the soil, keep earthing up the soil around the plants to prevent any of the potatoes showing. Otherwise, these will turn green and be inedible, as well as poisonous. Once the plants are well established and are in flower can give them a liquid feed. Once the plants start to die back that is normally the time to start lifting and harvesting.

Pull any weeds around your potato plant. If you notice holes or yellowing in your potato plant’s leaves, you might have pests. If you don’t want to use a pesticide on your potatoes, ask the employees at your local garden shop for tips on how to get rid of pests naturally.

Once a week should be fine during summertime, as long as it is a thorough watering, but do it more often if necessary. If the leaves of the plant look like they’re wilting, then your potatoes need more water. Be careful not to over water, though, or you’ll end up with black potatoes.

Store your harvested potatoes in a well-ventilated container (like a basket, crate, paper bag, or net) in a cool, dark, and dry place. Don’t put the potatoes in the fridge—this turns the starch to sugars, which alters the flavor and potentially forms acrylamide, a cancer risk chemical. [12] X Research source