Purchasing an onion set allows you to skip straight to the planting phase rather than having to sprout seeds first. The sets come ready to be put in the ground. Pick the right onion for your climate. Long-day onions, which means they need lots of sunlight, do better in northern climates. If you buy them from a local store, they should be stocking onions appropriate to where you live. Short-day onions do better in southern climates, where they can grow through the winter, if it’s mild enough. [2] X Research source
In other words, you can start seeds as early as late January. Starting the indoors gives them more time to leaf, which leads to bigger bulbs. If you don’t want to start indoors, buy plants to use outdoors.
If you have a flat planter inside, plant them 1/4 inch apart. You still want to plant them 1/2 an inch deep, though.
The best way to figure out which location is sunniest in your yard is to monitor it. Spend a day going outside every couple of hours. Notice which areas are sunniest throughout the day. [8] X Research source When choosing the location, pick the one that has the most sun for onions.
Start by measuring out your bed. Four feet by four feet is fairly standard, as most people can reach to the middle of the bed. Make the ground even with a shovel or rake. [10] X Research source Get the wood you’ll need. You’ll need 4X4s as stakes for the corners. They should be a foot each. You’ll also need 2X2s for the center stakes, four of them. Finally, you’ll 2X6s for the sides. They need to be 4 feet long, and you’ll need 8 of them. [11] X Research source Lay out your 2X6s on the square. Start by screwing one 2X6 into the side of the 4X4 post, flush with the bottom and the outer edge. Place another 2X6 on top of the other one in the same position but further up the post. It should be flush with the top and right up against the first one. Screw it in. [12] X Research source The next set of 2X6s should be added so that they go to the edge of the post but cover up the ends of the other boards. In other words, the first boards should run into the second, with the post sticking on the outside rather than the inside. Continue around the square until all the boards are joined. Once you’ve done that, measure across the square diagonally to make sure it’s all square. If it’s not, adjust the square by moving it slightly. [13] X Research source Add the other stakes. Hammer them into the ground up against the middle of each wall on the outside, then use deck screws to attach them to the wall. Finally, add in soil. [14] X Research source
When the soil is dry, spread biodegradable material on top of it, such as compost or rotting hay or grass. With a garden rake or rototiller, work it into the soil until the soil is loose and crumbly. Stake out how you want your rows to go. You want them to be about 4 feet wide or a little shorter if you can’t reach to the middle. Between the rows, you need space to walk. If you want room for a wheelbarrow, make the in-between part at least a foot to two feet wide. Create raised beds by moving the soil from the paths into the raised beds. A rake is good for this purpose. You may need to use a shovel near the end. To keep the paths from growing anything, line them with newspaper (5 pieces thick). You can also use cardboard. Put mulch or wood chips on top.
You may need to adjust the pH of the soil. If you need to make it more acidic (down towards 6. 8), you’ll add powdered sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or iron sulfate. To up the pH (make it slightly more alkaline), add lime. [16] X Research source If you need help deciding how much, use a pH kit from your local university agriculture extension office, which will give you detailed instructions about what to add. Find your local extension at http://nifa. usda. gov/partners-and-extension-map?state=All&type=Extension.
The easiest way to add nitrogen is to use a fertilizer rich in nitrogen. Good sources of nitrogen include fertilizers, composted manure, blood meal, and other composted organic materials.
Increase the amount of time they spend outside each day by a couple of hours. Also, start lessening how much you water them. As they move outside, they’ll get less water. You have to get them accustomed to them. Give them just enough water to keep them from wilting.
Late March to early April is usually a good time. Of course, if you have late winters, you may need to wait longer. You can plant 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. [21] X Research source
The rows should be 12 inches a part. [24] X Research source Whether you did rows or beds, that means you should be able to get 2 furrows (rows) per row or bed.
If you’re not sure when to water them, check the soil to see if it’s moist. While the plants are leafing, it needs to always be moist. However, once a week should be sufficient as long as they get a good soaking. [27] X Research source Once the bulbs start getting larger (when the plant part stops growing), the bulbs need to be kept much drier. [28] X Research source
Organic materials also improve the soil over time. Mulch helps the soil retain water, as well. However, you’ll need to remove the mulch once the bulbs start to enlarge. You should see them start pushing up the soil a bit. The bulbs need to be drier, and mulch retains too much moisture. [30] X Research source
